1996 Meursault Goutte d'Or
By Domaine des Comtes Lafon
1990 Batard-Montrachet from Domaine Leflaive, Burgundy, France
The 1990 vintage from the hallowed slopes of Burgundy is one that sets aficionados' hearts aflutter, and none more so than the 1990 Batard-Montrachet from Domaine Leflaive. This year was marked by an early start to viticultural life, leading to a growing season that displayed both gusto and elegance—a paradox captured perfectly within each bottle of this exceptional Chardonnay.
Maturation and Majesty: The Investment Potential of a Vintage
As I recall the conditions of 1990 in Burgundy: the spring blossomed swiftly and an impeccably dry summer ensued. These factors contributed to uniform flowering and subsequent ripening that laid the foundation for what would become stellar wines. Domaine Leflaive, with their renowned precision and respect for terroir, managed their parcels of Batard-Montrachet with exceptional care, ensuring that the vintage's natural opulence was translated with finesse into their wine.
The Pinnacle of Burgundian Craftsmanship
In tasting the 1990 Batard-Montrachet from Domaine Leflaive, one can discern the harmonious balance between richness and vitality. The wine unfurls with heady aromatics of ripe stone fruits and alluring baked pastry, reminiscent of apricot tarte Tatin adorned with Acacia honey. On the palate, it is expansive yet taut, presenting a visage of rainswept minerals typical of the grand cru vineyards. Over three decades of cellaring have coaxed out intricate tertiary nuances—subtle hints of almond cream, toasted hazelnut intermingling with whispers of vanilla bean.
For collectors and investors alike, this vintage represents an asset of undoubted allure. Its esteemed provenance from Domaine Leflaive coupled with the legendary status of the harvest makes the 1990 Batard-Montrachet an exemplar investment bottle—one whose value only intensifies with each passing year.
Conclusion: A Vintage Worthy of Capital Moments
Each taste of the 1990 Batard-Montrachet from Domaine Leflaive is like glimpsing a microcosm of Burgundy's best-loved narratives: climatic serendipity marrying meticulous craftsmanship. It remains a pivotal choice for connoisseurs seeking to elevate their cellar and investment portfolio with a wine that articulates both timelessness and exclusivity.
Current market price
$5,790.00
12x75cl
Highest score
88
POP score
435
Scores and tasting notes
Dominique Lafon was not pleased with his Meursault Goutte D'Or* when I visited him in November and was considering blending it in with his regular Meursault cuvee if it did not evolve properly. While excellent, and potentially outstanding, I can understand Lafon's concern as it does not appear to be at the level of his other premier crus. A tightly wound, buttered popcorn-scented nose gives way to a wide, broad, expressive, creamy, and medium-to-full-bodied personality with toasty minerals and white peaches. At the time of my tasting this wine's personality seemed to tail off abruptly. Projected maturity: 2000-2004. The rating, with the range of scores in parentheses, indicates the wine was tasted from cask, not bottle. Dominique Lafon performed more batonnage than usual on his 1996s, "to give them more richness," he said. However, unlike some other vignerons, Lafon abandons the practice when the malos start because he wants his wines to be protected by the carbon dioxide gas that is a by product of a wine's malo-lactic fermentation. Lafon's yields were between 35 and 45 hectoliters/hectare, demonstrating his dedication to quality in this potentially high-yielding vintage. Importer: Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA; tel (617) 731-6644.
Pierre Rovani - The Wine Advocate, 22 February 1998